Tools You Will Need To Make A Perfect Garden Path
Instructions are far less baffling, when you
understand what the tools named in them actually do – and where you
can find them.
“Screed”
This is a handy little smoothing gadget you can make yourself,
virtually on the spot.
All you will need is a 2” X 4” piece of wood. If you don’t have one,
buy one from the Lumber department, and get them to cut it so that
the length equals the width of your desired pathway.
Hammer a nail into at each end of your piece of 2” X 4”, at the
appropriate spot. Find the correct spot by measuring the ends of the
2” X 4” (as in the diagram) against the Edging, and making a mark
with a pen. This will allow the Screed to track along the top of the
edgings, eliminating the chance you will press and push too far in.
This will ensure your finished Face will be the same depth as your
pavers when your path is finished.
Cutting Tools
Because we do not line the end joints up on pavers, cutting will be
involved. Even if the walk is the same width as a certain number of
pavers, because of staggering, one brick in every other row will
still have to be cut.
You can cut your paver one of two ways…
Wet Saw – the same saw you use to cut ceramic tiles. You can rent
these at most rental places, or at your Home Improvement store
(usually about $30-40 for the day). The advantage of this method: It
is the easiest device to cut with.
Another cheaper and almost as easy way to cut them is to use a 3 lb.
sledgehammer or mallet, and a brick set.
Brick Set – A brickset is a broad, cold chisel used by masons.
Cutting with this looks impressive, but is actually remarkably
simple. The advantage of this method lies in simplicity and price:
Buying one of these will cost about half the rental of the wet saw.
To use a Brick Set properly:
1. Mark onto the workpiece (in this case, “the workpiece” being your
paver or brick) where you want the cut. Be sure to mark on all 4
sides.
2. Place the workpiece on a firm hard surface (such as another
paver). Position the brick set fully on the mark – you want the
entire edge of the brickset contacting the workpiece.
3. Tap the brickset enough to make a little groove all the way
across the face of the workpiece. Repeat this on all 4 sides. You
should now have a groove girdling the workpiece. Be sure and keep
the workpiece on the hard, smooth surface.
4. Place the brickset centered in one of the longer grooves so that
its entire edge is fully contacting the groove, and the length of
the brickset is very close to 90 from the face of the workpiece.
5. Give it a good healthy belt with your sledgehammer – usually only
one is required – and amazingly, the workpiece is now 2, with a
relatively smooth edge where your cut was just made.
Now all the bricks are in place. Compact them again with the place
compactor, starting in the middle, and working to the edges and
ends. You can now finish off your product by filling any gaps with
the finest sand you are able to find, followed by a hosing down (if
applicable) and your most technologically challenging tool of all –
a thorough sweeping with a stiff push-broom.
About the Author: D. Benjamin is the owner of
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