Making a Garden
The first thing in garden making is the
selection of a spot. Without a choice, it means simply doing the
best one can with conditions. With space limited it resolves itself
into no garden, or a box garden. Surely a box garden is better than
nothing at all.
But we will now suppose that it is possible to really choose just
the right site for the garden. What shall be chosen? The greatest
determining factor is the sun. No one would have a north corner,
unless it were absolutely forced upon him; because, while north
corners do for ferns, certain wild flowers, and begonias, they are
of little use as spots for a general garden.
If possible, choose the ideal spot a southern exposure. Here the sun
lies warm all day long. When the garden is thus located the rows of
vegetables and flowers should run north and south. Thus placed, the
plants receive the sun's rays all the morning on the eastern side,
and all the afternoon on the western side. One ought not to have any
lopsided plants with such an arrangement.
Suppose the garden faces southeast. In this case the western sun is
out of the problem. In order to get the best distribution of
sunlight run the rows northwest and southeast.
The idea is to get the most sunlight as evenly distributed as
possible for the longest period of time. From the lopsided growth of
window plants it is easy enough to see the effect on plants of
poorly distributed light. So if you use a little diagram remembering
that you wish the sun to shine part of the day on one side of the
plants and part on the other, you can juggle out any situation. The
southern exposure gives the ideal case because the sun gives half
time nearly to each side. A northern exposure may mean an almost
entire cut-off from sunlight; while northeastern and southwestern
places always get uneven distribution of sun's rays, no matter how
carefully this is planned.
The garden, if possible, should be planned out on paper. The plan is
a great help when the real planting time comes. It saves time and
unnecessary buying of seed.
New garden spots are likely to be found in two conditions: they are
covered either with turf or with rubbish. In large garden areas the
ground is ploughed and the sod turned under; but in small gardens
remove the sod. How to take off the sod in the best manner is the
next question. Stake and line off the garden spot. The line gives an
accurate and straight course to follow. Cut the edges with the spade
all along the line. If the area is a small one, say four feet by
eighteen or twenty, this is an easy matter. Such a narrow strip may
be marked off like a checkerboard, the sod cut through with the
spade, and easily removed. This could be done in two long strips cut
lengthwise of the strip. When the turf is cut through, roll it right
up like a roll of carpet.
But suppose the garden plot is large. Then divide this up into
strips a foot wide and take off the sod as before. What shall be
done with the sod? Do not throw it away for it is full of richness,
although not quite in available form. So pack the sod grass side
down one square on another. Leave it to rot and to weather. When
rotted it makes a fine fertilizer. Such a pile of rotting vegetable
matter is called a compost pile. All through the summer add any old
green vegetable matter to this. In the fall put the autumn leaves
on. A fine lot of goodness is being fixed for another season.
Even when the garden is large enough to plough, I would pick out the
largest pieces of sod rather than have them turned under. Go over
the ploughed space, pick out the pieces of sod, shake them well and
pack them up in a compost heap.
Mere spading of the ground is not sufficient. The soil is still left
in lumps. Always as one spades one should break up the big lumps.
But even so the ground is in no shape for planting. Ground must be
very fine indeed to plant in, because seeds can get very close
indeed to fine particles of soil. But the large lumps leave large
spaces which no tiny root hair can penetrate. A seed is left
stranded in a perfect waste when planted in chunks of soil. A baby
surrounded with great pieces of beefsteak would starve. A seed among
large lumps of soil is in a similar situation. The spade never can
do this work of pulverizing soil. But the rake can. That's the value
of the rake. It is a great lump breaker, but will not do for large
lumps. If the soil still has large lumps in it take the hoe.
Many people handle the hoe awkwardly. The chief work of this
implement is to rid the soil of weeds and stir up the top surface.
It is used in summer to form that mulch of dust so valuable in
retaining moisture in the soil. I often see people as if they were
going to chop into atoms everything around. Hoeing should never be
such vigorous exercise as that. Spading is vigorous, hard work, but
not hoeing and raking.
After lumps are broken use the rake to make the bed fine and smooth.
Now the great piece of work is done.
About the Author: D. Benjamin is the owner of
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